POKARAN .... APRIL 2012

Hi, 
Do you guys remember having seen this,,,,,,,,, ???

POKARAN is a small, non-nondescript town that, however, has a few facts associated with it.,,,,, 

- Firstly, it is the biggest town that lies in the geometrical centre or heart of the Great Thar Desert. 

-Secondly, its age....! It is an ancient settlement that was founded 3600 years ago. If we see it in the light of the first fact that points towards harshness of its surroundings (this place is hit be easterlies and westerlies, i.e, strong winds, on daily basis and throughout the year), this is actually a no mean feat.

- Thirdly, while a few portions of its fort are as old as 600 years, the fort, as it stands today, was built in 1890s.

- Fourthly, the local ruler during British rule was awarded Victoria Cross, obviously, not for fighting against the English but for fighting for them.

- Fifthly, while the average or mean summer temperature is in the range of 43 degrees Celcius, the highest one recorded here has been 54 degrees Celcius.

-Sixthly, while it hardly rains here- rainfall being a non- yearly phenomenon, the area is prone to flash floods and collateral damages because of its location on a rock bed. 

- Seventhly, some events based here shook the world both in 1974 and 1998. This may also explain the reason as to why, despite being located off the main Jodhpur-Jaisalmer rail and road alignments, it is connected by a railway limb. Thus, trains hit this place, wait for 20-odd minutes while engines come around and then the chugging resumes. 

This place has been ruled by three Rajput dynasties; Pokaran, Naravat and Champavat. Today, it has a mix of Rajput and Muslim populace (40:60 ratio). So, its name is based on the first dynasty and has now evolved into Pokaran or Pokharan.

The location of the town is better explained like this...

The first thing that hits you when you roll into Pokaran (there is a single and unidirectional railway access, as explained above) is this....

This is Sation Ka Deval. As the name indicates, it is associated with the primitive and inhuman Sati practice of an era gone by. Four queens of the local ruling family had, most likely while being in an inebriated state (as was the modus operandi during such shameful events), had committed self immolation at this site in the past. However, this structure was commissioned by the local ruler (the same guys who sided with Britishers and earned the decoration) towards the end of 19th century. Thankfully, the ritual stands banned now. The authorities have banned the entry into this complex by fencing it and by erecting a small brick barrier on its access track. And just to make sure that no issues come up at a later stage, even the propriety rights of the local royals over this piece of land, have been annulled.....Thanks Heavens! 

Pokaran has come a long way from being a one camel village to a live and active township. Its spread (more so when railway and army assets are counted in), its fame (Buddha keeps smiling intermittently), its roads (dusty but wide), its shops (from camel hide footwear to some branded stuff), its kiosks (Rajasthani artefacts) and its eateries (Mirch vada is a bomb, quite literally; kacchori is soft and sumptuous while Lassi a bit too sweetened but very rich) and such like attributes have enabled it to be called a township.

Even though, in comparison with many of its cousins in the state, it is pale and poor and yet, to my mind, that is where its actual charm lies. Live but not crowded, dusty but not mechanical, prosperous but not loud, self contained and yet subtle and not at all proud! There are no sellers running after you and there are no vendors gunning after you either. So, even while it may not be as rich in heritage, tourism and art, it has its own little worldly charm.

The fort, like all other things Pokarani, is a quiet place, duly hidden from the view despite its location on a slightly higher ground. And even though the streets leading to the fort are nothing much to write about, once you are inside (having earned the entry for a fee of INR 20/- per head anytime between 0700 and 1900h or having booked a room in the hotel inside) you are hit by another world. It so quiet, so peaceful and so tranquil inside (even though dust can still be found on the things). So, the fort, like most of its relatives in the region, has a palace that has been converted into a hotel by the royals who actually live in Jodhpur. For 5K-8K, not many of us can afford it for a longer duration but 20 bucks do not pinch a bit. BTW, the hotel has lush lawns, well furnished rooms, quiet courtyards and of course largely western clientele. 

So, let us take a peep inside (Amazingly, you do not even have to shell out 20 bucks! And you do not even have to pay the guides who, for the reasons unknown, do not ask for any fixed price, leaving it for you to decide; I paid 100 Rupees).....

The main palace that is a hotel today

(Probably inspired by the success of the business, rooms have been created outside the main palace too. Such rooms cost 5K, much lesser than the others that are inside the main palace)

Entrance to Zenana or the Ladies Quarters
(The frescos, though dying, are still there. No effort appears to be forthcoming when it comes to maintenance in this part of the fort even though this portion must have been owner's pride and everybody else's envy in the past. Such strange are the twists in a fort's long and unending life!)


An air cooler when there was no electricity
(There are actually two such gadgets on display but a dirty glass and lack of light does not let you click pics as per your liking. BTW, the mug seen in the pic is not a ghost's face but that of my guide. The glass is so dusty that it has started feeling and behaving and claiming openly to be a mirror!! Few things have real attitude!)

34 Killo sword

(There used to be a royal by the name of Thakur Sawai Singh. This body-building sword was his personal possession. On a personal note, while swords are meant to cut, this one would have been a muscle building thing. I am sure whosoever claimed that a pen was mightier than a sword, had never seen this monster! And somehow, I could not digest the fact that visitors offer money, own pics and their visiting cards here (protection money or extortion? But on a sombre note, they do not force or even request visitors to do this ritual)


The Roll of Royals
(Oh yes, that ghost with shades is yours truly but that is not the issue (again self acclaimed mirror that is actually a glass, has created this impression). The centre top guy (middle column; top) is the one who wielded that 34 Kg thing.)

The Royal Drapery

(They may not wear it on regular basis nowadays but some imaginative thinking can give us the feel of the days gone past. And coming back to my own image in the frame here (see, how snugly I, rather my shadow, has fitted in the dress!), while I do not mind being there but just a thought scares me...what if I were a royal but with a wrong sex!! Satti, for sure...how dreadful! I would better remain a lesser mortal that I happen to be at the moment.)


(झरोखा or a covered Balcony - an EVIL or a COMPULSION?
(Definitely an evil, a social evil on that. No doubts on that but in that era when there used to be more than one Alludin Khiljis for every Padmavati, this arrangement must have been more of a compulsion. But while royals could afford this, what would happen to the lesser mortals? Cannon (pun intended) fodder, simply! Anyways, standing behind the protective layer and looking out actually gives you a feel of security/privacy even though it may be irrelevant today. BTW, we must also appreciate the art involved here.)


The Common Recreational Area
(Please hold your horses....I am just referring to this courtyard where dancers and artists would perform on the platform (centre) while royal macho would sit in the open balcony (far end) while royal prestige (!!) would sit on the inner side of the covered balcony)

The Haute couture
(Purdah or no Purdah, fashion must have been the 'in thing' inside royal women quarters. GIRLS, after all, will always remain GIRLS! (Not that Men or boys will change either). Drawing inspiration from an otherwise secluded existence, this is an example of the belief that when life throws lemons at you, you would rather make lemonade and raise your glass to say CHEERS to the life!)



The Silver Lining
(So, the things were not that gloomy after all. Even the fairer sex had its own privileges. Like this balcony that despite being in the ladies wing, was kept open. So, when there was no public gathering, ladies had a choice to sit here and enjoy the quiet atmosphere (enjoy…yes; quiet…..I have my doubts! Can one imagine a few ladies and no chatter?)


The Kitchenette
(Such pot holder are found at more than one places in the general cooking area of the ladies quarters. You may note the innovative design to cater for spills and drainage )


WELCOME/ ADIEU
(The entry and exit point, at least as on date, are through a common lobby. This statue will welcome and bid farewell as you come in or go out of this part of the fort palace)

This cannon stares at you as you enter the main compound and face the ladies quarters..

To scare or to invite.....twisted evil at work!???

This is a Belgian Piece

Many more buddies....as good as a battery of the cannons!

Moving on and away from the Zenana,

The Court....king would sit in that chamber and deliver verdict

(I found this seat and its enclosure to be too small, esp for the guy with a 34 Kg monster


So peaceful today; must have been the centre of activities once upon a time!


Baba Ramdev's growing years depicted in artform
(This is not our present yogi who is fighting against corruption. Instead, this Baba Ram Dev, who is revered fondly by many Sindhis and Gujaratis, had some kind of association with this place. He is believed to have spent his childhood here.)


Here is Baba Ram Dev's portrait


Perhaps one does not know what to do with this old and damaged stuff; there must be some history attached with such ware


The tourist bus says it all....there is an upmarket niche here!




Views of the town from the fort


Rusted cannons guarding a battered flag!


The facade of the hotel


A peep......what else can we expect for 20 bucks!

Some innovative paint scheme this...


On a dark desert highway, cool wind in my hair
Warm smell of colitas, rising up through the air
.....Welcome to Hotel Pokaran(..ia..)!!


Old forts do not die; they just get converted into hotels!!


Streets, as said earlier, are wide and traffic is optimal

Time now to look beyond......

The roads leading into and out of the town are good, straight and devoid of heavy mechanical traffic. So, the resultant is maddening speed at which vehicular traffic plies around here. Some one,in a bid to put some sense into idiots' heads, has put up this....

BUT look at this....

.......and this.....

come on guys, we can not be so blind! May good sense prevail !!!!

And that is not the end; in a less frequented place like this, where we have pieces of history being 'kind' of preserved, eg, like this...

just see, what the descendants of apes and monkeys have been up to....

A closer look...

SHOCKING  and thus SHOCKED  but still hoping for a better sense to dawn upon us!

This is my prayer in the desert
And all that's within me feels dry!

ADIEU!!

Well, before I really shut it, here is a more artistic pic of Sati ka Deval....

(by Jaiwant Mdik)